Italian Vogue July Issue To Exclusively Feature Black Models

Vogue Italia or Italian Vogue's July issue will feature Black models exclusively. I am not a Vogue reader, but I love the editor's,Franca Sozzani, response to the fear that the issue will not sell:

"Because nobody is using black girls. I see so many beautiful girls and they were complaining that they are not used enough."

Ms Sozzani admitted the issue could yet prove to be unpopular among some in Italy, where the xenophobic Northern League is part of the new coalition led by Silvio Berlusconi: "Maybe in our country it is not the best idea. But I don't care. I think it is not my problem if they don't like it – it's their problem." The Independent

She was like.."Whatever!" Change comes from people being bold enough to take risks.
This is making news all over the fashion mags:

The rumors about an all-black issue of Italian Vogue are true! And its cover girl could be none other than 17-year-old rising star Jourdan Dunn. We're not surprised Dunn landed the issue, considering she was the first black model to walk Prada this past Fashion Week in Milan since Naomi Campbell in 1997. Steven Meisel shot the entire issue with zero white models, in hopes the move will encourage other magazines to diversify. New York Times

So what do you think? Will it sell? Will it change anything in the long run? Do we care? You say what?

Comments

[Anxious Black Woman]

This issue is such a "one step forward, two steps backward" approach.

On the hand, I think it's way cool for the Italian Vogue editor to say, we want an-all black modeling issue and not care one iota if the magazine sells. Good on her! We need bolder moves like this.

On the other hand, as svelte and gorgeous as Joudan Dunn is, she's also terribly, anorexically thin. Very scary image!

Say what you will about those trashy, hip-hop magazines, at least those rags are NOT afraid to feature fleshy black women and (yikes!) celluloid (especially if it's only on one part of the anatomy).

Not that this is an improvement. Far from it!

But, I'll start screaming "progress" when there are not only an equal number of black fashion models, but also when the models come in different sizes as well.

[daphne]

Regardless of the outcome, I think it's a good thing. I love the editor's attitude. It's quite telling that Italian Vogue is taking the step though.

I understand ABW's concern about body shape and size of models, but unfortunately, it's a reality of the modeling world in general, particularly haute couture (sp?)/runway modeling, and I think the evolution from really thin models to more diverse body shapes and size is slow-going. Baby steps?

[Veronica Henry]

Though I'm not a lover of the modeling industry or Vogue magazine for that matter, I can appreciate the gesture and realize the significance. I've never seen the cover model (or if I have, wouldn't have a clue), but if she's as thin as the anxious black woman says - definitely a scary image to promote.

I do remember perusing magazines as a child, hoping to see someone who looked like me and being largely disappointed. I think part of our negative self image comes from not seeing enough examples of our own diversified beauty (i.e. not only the promotion of lighter skin, straight/curly hair and keener features).

So in that regard, I have to say this step is a positive one.

Exquisitely Black

[N. Mahana]

Set aside the image issues the modeling world projects, this is a positive step. It's definitely good that she's doing this. She's taking a stand and that's something to admire.

[Miriam]

Jourdann Dunn has a real no nonsense look about her. And she's only 17?!

I think its a positive step only in the sense that it puts BW on the spot light w/a chance to put their best foot forward in an industry that's not going to go away any time soon, its the aftermath that I worry about.

Also I don't read these things so, I only hope its not scanty clad, fettish arousing stuff only. I hope its real artist's beauty.

[faith]

I'll buy it for it will certainly be a collector's item!

[Naima]

If they are going to use the run of the mill black models who are supper skinny, thin nose, thin lipped models than it's not a step foward.

[EmergingPhoenix]

I definitely admire her taking a stand, and I also want a copy of it. I agree it will be a collector's item. However, I do not feel like we can determine if this is a step forward or back until the public response to this is seen. I think of this as more of a message and stance to bring in more diversity. If people react poorly to this, then it could be a step back. If the industry just continues to exclude women of color, then it is not a step forward. I fear that people might say this is reverse racism, or attribute a poor quality to it. The best we could hope for, is that people respond positively and that the industry tries to incorporate more women of color.

Sozzani sent the beacon, and it is up to society to find their way to her message.

[roslynholcomb]

Can't speak for the other models, but Jourdann Dunn is not thin-nosed or lipped. She IS bone skinny, but then it's rare these days for a model to be above a size 00.

[Deidra]

I mean for me, I like the idea but it would totally suck if that was the ONLY issue that featured black women. What if they stop doing it after that? It's like, why do we ONLY celebrate Black History in February? Why do we ONLY worship God on Sunday? Doing things one time a week, month, year does not really count to me. If they are about diversity - then they will gradually begin to include black models with each issue.

The whole thing kinda feels like a Flavor of the Month type of thing. Like "It's hot to be black now, let's feature them in a whole issue this month". Don't get me wrong, I'd buy it to support them but it has to be an ongoing thing on Vogue's part to make it worth the effort.

Oh yea, and I don't like their cover model. She is way too skinny to be the cover girl for the average black woman.

[blackwomenblowthetrumpet.blogs]

Hello everyone! {waves}

I will wait until the issue comes out to see if I declare that it is truly a step forward for black women. I have seen top white designers use black models in their shows for the "safari" type scenes and for the "exotic" or weird themes that they want to present - which is totally insulting. A black woman can rock the same floor length gown that a white woman can. Why does she only get trotted out on stage if the designer wants to be edgy and weird??

Even if the hip hop magazines that do not promote the "anorexic black woman" mystique, they are surely promoting the black-woman-as-whore mystique so they get no thumbs up from me!

Thanks for letting me blow my trumpet!
Lisa

http://blackwomenblowthetrumpet.blogspot.com

[Ebony Intuition]

I'll support it and purchase the issue,I just know that there won't be models to represent the size range and real features that black women have

[Felicity]

It is very nice what Ms Sozzani is doing, however the fashion industry does not want to show real woman, a couple of weeks ago, in France, I'm not sure of what fashion magazine, however they showed a lady who was lovely curves, not fat, not touching up of the pictures and the magazine was sold out within days. It is in a lot of people's interest to show thin white models, if you show models with figures like Lauryn Hill and others. I think there would be a great upheaval. Also they are finding that a lot of men do not like the thin coat rail look.

[I am not Star Jones]

This will be the first Vogue magazine I will purchase with my own money in 10 years.

I stopped buying/reading Vogue when a good friend explained to me why his client Lauryn Hill couldn't be on the cover of the magazine.

Two words: Anna Wintour

This is before Lauryn went
When Colored Girls Have Had Enuf on the world and when she was the ish in the music industry.

Wow
imagine if she held it together.. I digress.

Yes the circumstance of this issue of Vogue isn't perfect or ideal (a foreign edition featuring AA women -- ha ha ha!) but perfection is such a fantasy these days.

I can't wait to curl up with a nice cold glass of champagne and luxuriate with this issue.

[MarilynJean]

Absolutely agree with the previous comments. This is a twisted form of progress. While this particular issue of Vogue will address the systemic and oftentimes blatant racism of the fashion industry, it still ignores the false beauty ideals that are perpetuated throughout its pages issue after issue.

Further, I'm disappointed (maybe angry is a better word) that this issue is being done by Italian Vogue and not our own American version.

[Carla]

I'm going to take a note from Make Fetch Happen's post, which offered a different perspective (http://makefetchhappen.blogspot.com/2008/04/independent-black-is-finally-in-fashion.html): it's still segregation. Will black models be featured prominently and regularly in future issues? And why the July issue, traditionally a very low seller, anyway?

[A]

I am buying the issue.

Her goal is to show the number of underemployed black models out there, all gorgeous and yes, model thin. She will achieve that goal.

Whether or not the issue sells is another issue. I know I'm getting it as are nearly all the black women I informed.

Asian models are also underemployed and I wish they'd feature them more. What about them?

Women of color are big consumers of fashion. I don't see why the models out there shouldn't look more like us.

Here's another unintended consequence: non-black women may look at it and feel like they aren't beautiful. While my immediate reaction is to say it's bad, it serves a purpose in white women, for one month, get to live in an alternate universe in which they aren't packaged as the standard of beauty. They might take comfort in knowing that all will be back to normal the next month but for the time being, they might look like Alek, Chanel, Ajuma & co. and wish they had those traits much like tons of non-black girls and women do monthly with Gisele, Gemma and Natalia. There is not a single time I read Vogue without feeling ugly and depressed afterwards. It finally occurred to me to quit enabling this. I've never felt ugly but black beauty isn't some lesser alternative to white beauty.

It doesn't look like the fashion industry is moving away from the Olive Oyls. I don't find it particularly disturbing because that to me is not at all responsible for body image issues in girls and women. Very few women read Vogue or could identify a Marc Jacobs ad from a mile away or could name most of today's models with the exception of Gisele. Very few women and girls want to have Jourdan's body and those that do have prior problems that Vogue did not cause. I can look at her and notice her beautiful lips or flawless skin and see that they look somewhat resemble mine. I don't think you can underestimate this impact. The same needs to be done with Asian women as I'm seeing a surprising number of my very intelligent, beautiful friends, buddies and acquaintances partake in ethnicity obliterating surgery, oddly enough as they move to areas with more Asian and Asian-American people. I suppose this would be more common in my black friends if the stigma weren't stronger in the black community. It is fairly easy for a white woman or girl to look in a magazine, in TV or in movies and find someone considered beautiful who looks like them. This, unfortunately, can't be said for other groups. Asian women at least have those awesome Korean soap operas. Bollywood and Latin television do a pretty crappy job at representing the range of beautiful women, sticking only with the fairest of them.

Seriously, try it. Find a woman who looks like you who everyone says is beautiful. Find a woman with a figure like yours whose figure is praised. You'll suddenly have a burst of body confidence.

[queenesther]

models are human coathangers and i'm totally okay with that because it's in the job description -- and also because that's the way they're built. my prepubescent niece is built like a lollypop and she eats like a longshoreman. so be it.

truth be told, i can't knock any black woman working american/european runways because it's the only place in the fashion industry where she is paid as much as her white counterpart. EVERYONE in the business knows this, EVERYONE knows that it's despicable and NO ONE has stepped forward to right this wrong -- until now.

of course, it wasn't always like this. when we had black designers who insisted on using black models (Patrick Kelly, anyone?) we were absolutely everywhere, in every shade imaginable, and we were gorgeous. i remember when mr. kelly sent white models down the runways in paris in blackface, looking like fresh-off-the-plantation pickaninnies while the black models were lean, strong, elegant! and what about willi smith? isn't that how we (and robert di niro) met his sister toukie?

i'm not holding out any hope for american VOGUE, either. remember: the first black model on the cover of VOGUE was beverly johnson and that was 1977. Anna Wintour has famously said that whenever she puts black women on the cover of VOGUE, the sales drop -- which is the reason why us on the cover is the only time i ever buy it.

is this a step in the right direction? of course it is! why? because as italian VOGUE goes, so goes fashion. personally, i'm looking forward to opening up a magazine that features black women looking beautiful. aren't you?

[Divalocity]

Our beauty and diversity was once celebrated, today it’s being practically ignored, not only by the mainstream media but by our very own who are not showing the diversity of skin tones of the Black woman. So many have adopted the doctrine of the Anglo aesthetic of beauty and presenting it as the ideal standard of beauty, shunning the darker skin beauties and any woman of color. Why should we spend billions of our dollars on clothes when they don‘t even include women who look like many of us in their advertisements, magazines and fashion shows? Sometimes we must make a conscious effort to make a bold statement and start with holding our money, especially when we and our money are constantly being disrespected. Have we failed to read between the lines or are we just ignoring the fact that the actions of the designers are speaking louder than words?

[KJM]

I think a better question might be what portion of retail sales by the advertisers in a magazine like Vogue come from the African American community or the rest of the African diaspora for that matter. African dollars are very much taken for granted by European designers. This is a bold move and I would hope that in the longer run the advertisers would hire models from the diaspora that are representative of our dollars. As far as magazine sales go - the magazine publishers should make greater effort to advertise in the African American when we are on the cover as we love us and would surely make up in a drop in sales from our European counterparts. Having said that, I will surely keep my eye out for this issue.

[MrMarques72]

When I heard that Italian Vogue was printing a special "all-black" issue of course I wanted to check it out. But when I picked it up what immediately struck me was how many pages of white models in the advertisements I had to go through before I even got to the "all-black" section. Seeing that it is the advertising that sells magazines, TV shows, etc., the fashion paradigm of whiteness remains the same. In Brazil there is a saying that "the dark/black meat is the cheapest". I guess that applies to fashion and fashion marketing as well. Although I've heard that the "all-black" has become Italian Vogue's top-selling issue, I am curious to see what the models of their next issue will look like. The simple fact that they had to devote part of an issue to black models reinforces blackness as "other", "exotic" and "different". After getting a "taste" of the "flavor of the month", things usually go back to normal. A lack of color on runways and magazines is a global phenomenon whether on the runways of Milan, Paris, London, New York or São Paulo, and one issue partially devoted to black models will not solve the problem.

Holla,
MrMarques72
http://www.afrobrasilamerica.blogspot.com/2008/02/blackout-on-runwayapago-na-passarela.html